Garderoba polskich elegantek w XVIII wieku

Abstract

The article is concerned with the wardrobe of Polish ladies in the XVIII century, presenting fabrics, gowns, sportswear, coats, clothing elements and accessories. Polish fashionable ladies were highly influenced by French and English patterns. Elegant ladies of the XVIII century could be recognized by wearing corsets and onerous panniers. The XVIII century is characterized by two main fashion trends. At the beginning gowns were richly decorated and made from heavy fabrics. Although they looked showy, they were uncomfortable and unhealthy, due to tight corsets. With time gowns became simpler and more comfortable. Flamboyant and heavy gowns yielded to light and gauzy ones. The new trend in fashion was highly appreciated because of the smaller amount of fabrics indispensable to sew a dress and a reasonable choice of accessories. Polish ladies’ wardrobe was complemented by coats used in accordance with the season and the weather. Coats like jupka (sleeveless tunic), kontusik (winter fur-lined coat), salopa (coat with a cape) or caraco were not as heavily influenced by western patterns as the other elements of Polish ladies’ wardrobe. Decorative elements, such as laces, fichu, bavettes, corsets and panniers added to the charm of the ladies who wore them. Costly and showy clothing required elegant and expensive accessories. Polish ladies spent a fortune on booties, stockings, fans, jewelry, bags and hats. Ostentatiously expensive and fashionable outfits were a sign of wealth and social standing. They constituted a lifelong investment and were inherited by next generations.